Paris, Je t’aime
See you again soon...
Eurorami is once again
...Rami of California
Thursday, October 09, 2008
plus d'effort
I rode accross Paris last night on the other kind of scooter- the one that looks like a skateboard with a handle. I gave Lou back her bike, but as we were walking we found an abandoned kick scooter. It's a little bit broken.
I should've been in bed. I'm sick.
I'll be home too soon.
Wednesday, October 08, 2008
Wednesday, October 08, 2008
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
des cendres sur le vent
If I had had time I would've liked to take my mom's ashes to Villa Adrianna outside of Rome. Or better yet, to some Etruscan ruins. But I didn't, so I threw them off of a bridge into the Tiber. They were so beautiful changing directions in the wind like a flock of birds. Some probably made it to the water. Some just disappeared.
If I had had time I would've liked to take my mom's ashes to Villa Adrianna outside of Rome. Or better yet, to some Etruscan ruins. But I didn't, so I threw them off of a bridge into the Tiber. They were so beautiful changing directions in the wind like a flock of birds. Some probably made it to the water. Some just disappeared.
The first part of the ashes was thrown off Mt. Diablo by my uncle Dave and family.
The second part came to Europe with me.
The plan for the rest is to plant them in the backyard with a fig tree. We haven't done that yet because we are going to include Yael's placenta, which is currently in use.
Now I'm thinking I will leave some out to take with me to other places in the world. She kept saying that she REALLY wanted to travel...
non, c'est bien!
The other day I was on the metro and an accordionist got on the train and started playing. As soon as he got on I and everyone around me instantly put up our shields. The instant reflex of metropolitan city dwellers.
glazed over eyes and dead expressions
OK, you got me. That is how Parisians already act on the metro!
But still
Increase shield density. Threat of being approached for money.
Then I thought to myself, "What are you doing? You LOVE French accordion music. That's why you're HERE! (ok, partially) You get to listen to bal muzette while watching old architecture reflected on the Seine! HOORAY!"
So sweet and savory.
Give that man some money.
Saturday, October 04, 2008
Roma
Saturday, October 04, 2008
Roma
For a weekend I got to trade the beige and gray of Paris for Mediterranean oranges and umbers, the chestnut trees for palms and Roman pines, Camembert for Gorgonzola, old for ancient and chilly air for wonderful, warm, balmy, thank you Jesus sun! Warm weather for a day and a half! No jacket! Tank top! Then came thunder, lightning, rain and cold cold air. Putan!
No pictures of ruins. It started raining just after I took this photo.
Here is a photo of my first meal in Rome. I took the bus from the train station to Chantal's apartment. She made me a coffee and then a lunch of prosciutto, arugula and parmesan with lemon juice and much olive oil.
Thursday, October 02, 2008
occupée
dancing
couscous
speaking french
frustration with my classes
not speaking french
concerts
sunshine
coffee
jumping through hoops to change my classes
meeting people
rain
cheese
crying
ashes in the Seine
falling leaves
not liking my new classes either
walking
bike
riding
scooter riding
trying to make more class changes
wind
film festival
street festival
cool black expats
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
un drôle de tour
I found myself near Trocadero tonight, and before getting on the metro, I decided to look at the Eiffel Tour. I came around the corner and mounted the viewing area where I once forced the feeling back into my legs after a winter scooter ride (see "vive Paris" from 2006.) The bloody thing was blue!
The Tour Eiffel was supposed to be temporary, built for a world's fair in 1889. French people hated it. They thought it was a weird eyesore. However, it proved very useful as a radio tower during WW1, so they decided not to tear it down. Of course, it's a source of pride now, the symbol of Paris, ect.
The mystery is why, given the French character, would they continue to make the thing more and more garish???
When I arrived 2 years ago I saw that, since my last visit, a rotating searchlight had been installed at the top, and there's a blinkie-light show for 7 minutes every hour.
Beautiful but confusing.
Is Las Vegas imitating Paris or is Paris Imitating Las Vegas?
Now it looks like a cartoon.
First of all- it's blue.
And then there is a circle of 12 big bright gold stars on it.
At midnight a caped Sarkozi flies in and signals the end of another productive day in the European Union.*
(*last sentence not actually true)
un oeuf échappé
This morning I chased a poached egg around the kitchen. In the end I decided not to eat it, just incase it slid over some cockroach poison.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
hein...
In the late afternoons you see people walking with baguettes. They don't put them in bags like in the US. -My god that would be a lot of bags!!!- The boulanger wraps a little piece of paper around the middle where you hold it. In my neighborhood, I often see African men in African clothes carrying baguettes.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
peu à peu
After a few years of studying french, I have finally started using the correct responce of "si" to negative questions.
un oeuf échappé
This morning I chased a poached egg around the kitchen. In the end I decided not to eat it, just incase it slid over some cockroach poison.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
hein...
In the late afternoons you see people walking with baguettes. They don't put them in bags like in the US. -My god that would be a lot of bags!!!- The boulanger wraps a little piece of paper around the middle where you hold it. In my neighborhood, I often see African men in African clothes carrying baguettes.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
peu à peu
After a few years of studying french, I have finally started using the correct responce of "si" to negative questions.
In English, the response to negitive questions like, "So, you're not going to the store?" is always a litle confused. I might say, "YES, I am" or "no, I AM".
French is very clear.
"Are you going to the store?"
going= oui
not going= non
"You're not going to the store?"
going= si
not going= non
I known this rule for years, but it doesn't help in the moment.
Friday, September 19, 2008
Notre Dame de Paris
She has a pretty facade, but you have to check her out from the back. Her flying buttresses are hot hot hot!
Friday, September 19, 2008
Notre Dame de Paris
She has a pretty facade, but you have to check her out from the back. Her flying buttresses are hot hot hot!
I decided to forgo the downward dogs yesterday morning and went first thing to Notre Dame to climb the steps of the south tower. Nearly 400 steps, worn with age. Big foot dips. They're like Birkenstocks... but steps.
The cathedral was completed in the 14th century (it took almost 200 years to build.) The original gargoyles were functional; they were rain spouts. In the 19th century, the dudes who restored it after the revolution like gargoyles, so they put them all over the top for fun.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
le Marais
I had drinks in the Marais tonight.For those of you unfamiliar with the city of scarves, it's like if you put the Castro in a Medieval Jewish ghetto without removing the Medieval Jews.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
des accents forts
In my french class are people from Croatia, Kirghistan, Columbia, Argentina, Mexico, Brazil, Spain, U.S., Uruguay and The Netherlands. The Spanish speakers are so hard to understand! They have the least compatible accent with French. (Though it should be said that there is no one from further east than Kirghistan.) When either the guy from Uruguay or the one from Spain talk, I just have to give up and use that as my mental break time.
Monday, September 15, 2008
oh la la!
Four hours a day is going to kick my butt!
Sunday, September 14, 2008
une folle à Montmartre
le Marais
I had drinks in the Marais tonight.For those of you unfamiliar with the city of scarves, it's like if you put the Castro in a Medieval Jewish ghetto without removing the Medieval Jews.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
des accents forts
In my french class are people from Croatia, Kirghistan, Columbia, Argentina, Mexico, Brazil, Spain, U.S., Uruguay and The Netherlands. The Spanish speakers are so hard to understand! They have the least compatible accent with French. (Though it should be said that there is no one from further east than Kirghistan.) When either the guy from Uruguay or the one from Spain talk, I just have to give up and use that as my mental break time.
Monday, September 15, 2008
oh la la!
Four hours a day is going to kick my butt!
Sunday, September 14, 2008
une folle à Montmartre
An eccentric lady in Montmatre talked to me through her window for over an hour. Notice her lunch and various projects. I would pick up things that would occasionally slide off of the sill. Her stories spiralled with no apparent end. She would disappear from view from time to time and reappear with some new thing to show me that related to what she was talking about, thus more things would accumulate on the sill. I promised to send her a card at Christmas.
un coin typiquement Parisien
Nothing special. Just a couple photos of a very typical corner in Paris.
Isabelle told me the news the day before, because I haven't been paying attention to it: in the US the elections were decided early, and Clinton would be the next president. We were still going to vote in November, but it would be mostly for ceremony.
Friday, September 12, 2008
rouler sans casque
rouler sans casque
I've been here two and a half days and already it feels like weeks. (In a good way.)
I've been riding a bike around Paris, which is increadibly exhilarating. On narrow streets, bike and cars have to travel at the same rate because there isn't always enough room to pass each other, so I occasionally find myself riding really fast, without a helmet, through the high energy bussle of this beautiful and exciting city. I know my way around the city to get there eventually. As you, Dear Reader, may recall, Paris is not a grid but a sea-shell (ah, the French.)
I am sleeping well.
I have no jetlag.
I am eating my roquefort.
On my first evening here, I helped a friend make 7 cakes for her work party.
I love the rhythm of Paris. Somehow I am able to both lounge around and get shit done.
The Pope is here. There will be many demonstrations this weekend. Streets are blocked everywhere. I ended up riding down a parade or march route for a long time waiting to be kicked off by any of the thousands of police in various uniforms lining the route. I wasn't. The French tend to have a "not my job" attitude.
I start French classes Monday. 4 weeks at L'Alliance Francaise. 5 days a week. 4 hours a day.
I won't have a cell phone this time, but my land line chez Isabelle is 011 331 4585 2013.
Monday, September 01, 2008
recent shows
The Listener
How Tom Smith Caused the 1906 Earthquake 
How Tom Smith Caused the 1906 Earthquake 
...And If We Shadows
I feel like she is my new god, meaning she is now who I pray to, talk to, imagine is there listening, watching.
I will strive to be worthy of all her gifts, her boundless generosity.
I think she is the most generous person I have ever known.
She said she wasn’t afraid of dying, and I think for the most part that was true. Believing she wasn’t afraid put herself and those around her at ease and created a positive environment. But in those two days before she passed when she was not in her “right mind” (I don’t believe there is a term for it, at least they didn’t have one at the hospital- “disoriented” was their understated choice, “pre-coma” was ours.) she cried like a little hurt animal, devoid of ego, whenever a nurse touched her.
She is full of blessings. Her house is full of treasures.
My mind races. I think about moving furniture and what to do with all these objects and how to rent parts of the house. I’m not sleeping much. I tend to do a lot of tape measuring in the early hours of the morning. This I guess is my way of grieving. ?
I feel like she is my new god, meaning she is now who I pray to, talk to, imagine is there listening, watching.I will strive to be worthy of all her gifts, her boundless generosity.
I think she is the most generous person I have ever known.
She was so supportive- adamantly supportive, of me and so many others.
from an email to my godmother, Cindy, in Bali:
"I'm glad you are in Bali. I think of it as a healing place, the ocean, the people. My mom wanted to travel so much, and you being there felt like an anchor so her spirit to make a stop there. To calm her when she was agitated, I told her to visit you. I also told her to relax, told her I loved her, told her to go somewhere else and let the hospital take care of her body. I didn't know she would die, though at that point we knew finally how much cancer was in her body. Tuesday is when I found out, and maybe when she finally let herself accept it. She passed on Thursday night. I believe she made a decision like usual. She had to change the plan, but once she did she went quickly without dragging out the pain.
from an email to my godmother, Cindy, in Bali:
"I'm glad you are in Bali. I think of it as a healing place, the ocean, the people. My mom wanted to travel so much, and you being there felt like an anchor so her spirit to make a stop there. To calm her when she was agitated, I told her to visit you. I also told her to relax, told her I loved her, told her to go somewhere else and let the hospital take care of her body. I didn't know she would die, though at that point we knew finally how much cancer was in her body. Tuesday is when I found out, and maybe when she finally let herself accept it. She passed on Thursday night. I believe she made a decision like usual. She had to change the plan, but once she did she went quickly without dragging out the pain.
"This is how I explain this year- think heart-warming eighties christmas movie:She was supposed to die last year while you were in Bali. She decided she wanted to live and was given another year in which she had a lot of meaningful experiences- many people came and told her how much she changed their lives, she learned to be gracious in a whole new way, she got to have the experience of challenging herself to learn to walk and get strong, she was inspired to write her emotional mastery book, she had clients, one of whom had brain cancer (she said she learned a lot from their sessions), she had another birthday party, this time one where she could go walk over and sit on the couch next to her friend, oh I don't know, so many others. It was very important for me, too. I would have been devastated and stunned if she had died last year. Anyway, after that period of time was completed, we went back to where we had left off- same ward, same nurses, same symptoms, same Cindy and Joe in Bali. Here were the differences for me: I was familiar with the symptoms and scenario and was therefore relaxed. Dr. Reier was out of the country and in her place was a very caring and accessible internal medicine doctor who explained things to me when I asked (imagine that)! She really made a difference.
"You mentioned her large energy being suddenly absent. Here is my response to that.While I was rather lethargic when she was alive, I have been like a speed freak since she passed away. My mind races. It's hard for my thoughts to stay on her. I have been mentally obsessing about material and logistics. We started clearing and organizing instantly. That was and is what we seem to be inspired to do. Yesterday we demolished a plaster ceiling and put up sheet rock!. I feel like the pebble in her slingshot. It's shocking to others. Tenants are moving into our old apartment on June 1. I check in with myself. I'm expecting to be hit hard at some point. emailing you makes me emotional. I don't sleep much, but I'm not plagued with regret, nightmares, or emptiness. Like when she was living, I feel very supported by her. We are making different decisions about the house than ones she would make, but she would approve of them!"I performed the night after she died. I was in the middle of a 6-week run. It was the first show she didn't see. She would have been especially proud of me because I really got to be a superstar. I was very proud of my work in this piece. It was a blessing because I had some beautiful monologues about death, which give me an opportunity to slow down and focus and feel..."
"You mentioned her large energy being suddenly absent. Here is my response to that.While I was rather lethargic when she was alive, I have been like a speed freak since she passed away. My mind races. It's hard for my thoughts to stay on her. I have been mentally obsessing about material and logistics. We started clearing and organizing instantly. That was and is what we seem to be inspired to do. Yesterday we demolished a plaster ceiling and put up sheet rock!. I feel like the pebble in her slingshot. It's shocking to others. Tenants are moving into our old apartment on June 1. I check in with myself. I'm expecting to be hit hard at some point. emailing you makes me emotional. I don't sleep much, but I'm not plagued with regret, nightmares, or emptiness. Like when she was living, I feel very supported by her. We are making different decisions about the house than ones she would make, but she would approve of them!"I performed the night after she died. I was in the middle of a 6-week run. It was the first show she didn't see. She would have been especially proud of me because I really got to be a superstar. I was very proud of my work in this piece. It was a blessing because I had some beautiful monologues about death, which give me an opportunity to slow down and focus and feel..."
My mother died almost a week ago. Until last year, I thought she would live to a hundred or so. One day she would call and leave messages for everyone saying goodbye, and that would be it.
She did have some control over the situation. As soon as she realized it was really bad she left. As always she had a strong intention (to live, to get well then to travel and …), but she wasn’t attached to the results.
She did have some control over the situation. As soon as she realized it was really bad she left. As always she had a strong intention (to live, to get well then to travel and …), but she wasn’t attached to the results.
She said she wasn’t afraid of dying, and I think for the most part that was true. Believing she wasn’t afraid put herself and those around her at ease and created a positive environment. But in those two days before she passed when she was not in her “right mind” (I don’t believe there is a term for it, at least they didn’t have one at the hospital- “disoriented” was their understated choice, “pre-coma” was ours.) she cried like a little hurt animal, devoid of ego, whenever a nurse touched her.
She is full of blessings. Her house is full of treasures.
My mind races. I think about moving furniture and what to do with all these objects and how to rent parts of the house. I’m not sleeping much. I tend to do a lot of tape measuring in the early hours of the morning. This I guess is my way of grieving. ?
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